Hello!
We’ve got a group of hungry cheesemongers gathered up to discuss all things Comté. Prepare to learn all matter of factoids, take in pairing suggestions, and even watch this fearless foursome dream up a brand new tuna melt! Shall we dive right in? First some introductions…
Emilio – 3rd generation Di Bruno, VP of Culinary Pioneering, and guy who enjoys food.
Hunter – 21-year veteran of Di Bruno Bros. Cheese and Charcuterie Category Manager.
Amanda – Certified Cheese Professional and reliably a pleasure to deal with.
Rocco – Repping South Philly, a CCP who is all smiles and all business.
Hunter
I’ve heard several experts refer to Comté as “The Perfect Cheese.” It’s hard to argue that point. In my mind, cheese nerds appreciate it, and it’s still very appealing to people dipping their toe in the specialty cheese pool.
What makes Comté so appealing to you?
Amanda
It’s just so versatile. Great on a board, the perfect melter- so easy to like!
Rocco
I think I am in the “Perfect Cheese” camp. It is a super snack-able cheese, there is nothing I would rather have under a cheese dome for easy access. It is also the most versatile cheese for cooking that I can think of.
Emilio
it seems like there are only a handful of this type of cheese today that folks enjoy regularly, they are the standard humble styles of cheeses.
Hunter
I’m glad you both touched on versatility. I agree that it works well in so many applications. I often hear the phrase “buttered toast” use to describe the flavor profile, and what doesn’t taste good on toast?
Emilio
This cheese in particular melts /eats well and is never out of style
Rocco
Just the size and shape of the average cut of Comté in France is so epic. It’s over a foot long!
Amanda
I’m so happy that we are featuring Comté as it starts to warm up for grilling season.
Hunter
Me too. I used it to make grilled cheese for my kids yesterday and 2 out of 3 liked it!
That’s an incredible result for me.
Amanda
#dadwin
Hunter
@Rocco good point, but does size really matter?
Emilio
One great pairing idea that come to mind is the Cabernet Onion jam from Tishbi, giving you that french onion soup vibe.
Hunter
That’s an Amanda original, giving credit where it’s due
I reference that one all the time.
Amanda
@Emilio have you tried it with the basque cherry confit that we are featuring this month?
Rocco
I think so @Hunter I love the idea of having a solid 12 inches of space before my knuckles are on the grater/shredder
Emilio
yes, give her lots of cred for that one. it is a very pleasing sample at the stores
you could have added that to your kids grilled cheese @Hunter (edited)
Hunter
Baby steps
#cookingforkids
Amanda
You’ve all been to Fort Lucotte, right?
Hunter
I have!
It’s basically cheese Mecca
Amanda
I’ve seen pictures- what’s it like in person?
Emilio
Not yet, was planning on it this year but i pushed to 2019. I need to go.
Hunter
So fun fact: the fort was built during the Franco-Prussian war, but was a complete failure
Emilio
Rocco
I have never been more overwhelmed by smell than when I stepped into the fort
Hunter
The French thought it would be a good idea to hide thousands of soldiers underground, then surprise the Prussians as the strolled through the forests. Unfortunately, the Prussians found the entrance, which was also the only exit.
Emilio
#warfail
Hunter
They barricaded it, forcing the French to surrender, and the French decided to use the space for something they’re actually good at: affinage
There are usually in the area of 100,000 wheels ageing at any given time
And they’re crammed into every nook and cranny. Some rooms, formerly sleeping quarters, have 8-12 wheels in them.
Amanda
That’s a lot of Comté …
Hunter
Most of the cheeses are in the main room, which looks like this
Amanda
Do they use a specific type of wood to age the wheels on?
Emilio
Well i love this cheese, and although we had a great British promotion going on this weekend, i also purchased a half kilo of Comté…
Which my wife and i had for a snack last evening
Hunter
What did you drink with that, Emilio?
Emilio
We had the Sicilian Grillo from Poggio Anima and also served it with the Rabbit & pork cheek pate from Smoking Goose with cornichon and the french mustard. You know the one.
Hunter
That sounds awesome! That’s my favorite pate.
Emilio
The grainy one we sell but i have the small jar of the cognac mustard
Amanda
@Emilio I LOVE that wine. Bought a bottle home from the Rittenhouse store this weekend too!
Emilio
It worked well. Lots of body and kept the cheese savory.
Rocco
Marcel Petit completely changed the way that Comté was aged. People thought he was crazy going for quality over quantity.
He took a cheese that was widely considered to be a commodity cheese at the time and put a premium on quality of milk used and careful aging.
I love the classic Comté with butter and cornichon on a baguette
Emilio
I like to cut it into batons like match sticks
Hunter
then wrap those match sticks in Lady Edison Country Ham and top with a Basque Cherry
Emilio
Thats a good one @Rocco i like the butter from LeMeunier
Amanda
@Hunter that was my favorite bite during our staff training last month
Emilio
Now you’re making me hungry again!
Rocco
I haven’t had that Ham yet. I am excited for new ham!
Hunter
Get it while it lasts, @Rocco we only got 8 legs
Emilio
That ham is awesome. i also took home a bit of that this weekend. might use your pairing tonight @Hunter
One of my favorite ways to enjoy Comté is melted on a burger and i think that Balthazar in NYC does it very well.
Hunter
Who can identify something in the make process that differentiates Comté from Gruyere, its Swiss cousin?
Amanda
They use a different breed of cattle
Hunter
@Amanda half credit…which breed?
Emilio
Montbeliard cows
Hunter
@Emilio full credit
Emilio
May have spelled that wrong
Hunter
There’s an e on the end, but let’s say it was autocorrect
Amanda
In Switzerland they use Holsteins for gruyere
They call them Fribourgeois
Rocco
Here are the triumphant cuts of Comté from the shop at the Fruitiere
Emilio
hahaha
that is a picture of beauty!
Hunter
there’s also a difference in how salt is applied. Gruyere is dipped in brine, while Comté is hand-rubbed in salt
Emilio
I start to salivate just looking at it! that’s what i mean……
Amanda
Have you guys tasted the Fleur lately?
I typically prefer the older Comté Lucotte but the Fleur’s been really, really tasty
Hunter
On Friday. Quite tasty. Maybe more flavor per price than any cheese we have at the moment, for only $19.99lb.
Emilio
i did on sat. it is nicely acidic or young tasting which i think is great for cooking
Hunter
Because the Fleur is about 6 months younger than the Fort Lucotte, you can usually see the seasonal variation in the color of the paste. One is from summer milk, which is grass-fed and therefore more yellow. The other is winter milk, silage-fed, and more bone-white.
Rocco
I have to say the Fleur is a slightly better melter than the other ages and you don’t miss the complexity as much when its gooey and warm.
Hunter
@Rocco I agree
Emilio
I like the fleur with a frissee salad just dressed in an emulsified dressing of lemon, mustard, and olive oil with a poached egg. It is awesome!
Amanda
@Emilio you making us this for lunch?
Emilio
I know, now i’m making myself hungry
Rocco
Fleur is most often a pizza cheese in our house. Usually with bacon and thinly sliced raw onions,
Emilio
The french Pommery mustard is what i was talking about
that’s a good call
Hunter
We’re going to feature it on scallops for the Legends Dinner this year
Going to be epic.
Emilio
It sucks that i am going to miss it this year.
Amanda
Whoa. That sounds great.
Hunter
Whoever made the rule that you can’t pair cheese with seafood was not very intelligent.
Rocco
What’s on the scallops? The mustard or the fleur…or both?
Hunter
the Fleur
Emilio
I love cheese and seafood especially scallops
Hunter
We should come up with an elevated tuna melt
Emilio
ohhhhh
Rocco
I love cheese melted on pretty much anything.
Hunter
Mighty Bread Sourdough, Ventresca tuna, Comté Fleur, Piment Espelette
Emilio
That could be a great addition to the sandwich list
Amanda
Ortiz tuna!
Emilio
keep going…….
Hunter
Rocco
I’m in.
Emilio
Add some chopped cornichon… i love the brininess
Amanda
Crisp and Co pickles would be great too
Rocco
I like giardinera chopped up in tuna.
Emilio
Maybe a little crumbled hard boiled egg
Hunter
Or soft boiled, served open face
Moderator:
How does Comté fit into everyday French cuisine (if it does)?
or French cuisine, generally
Hunter
Comté is actually the most-consumed cheese in France. It is their go-to table cheese, as we’ve identified it works in many classic recipes, too
Emilio
We know that, we need to keep educating the folks who come into DB
Hunter
I tell everyone. “Nobody knows cheese better than the French, and they eat more of this than anything? What more do you need to know?”
Emilio
What did i read about Comté ? it takes something like 160 gals of milk to make one 80lb wheel?
Hunter
I’m not sure…I wasn’t there when you read it.
Amanda
It takes a lot of milk and a lot of love to make that cheese
Hunter
That doesn’t sound too far off, though
Amanda
Especially in the summer
Rocco
Those 2 vats are only 6 wheels of cheese!
Emilio
How many fruitieres are left to help with this production?
Amanda
wow.
Emilio
anyone? anyone? buehler? buehler?
Hunter
I think there are 175
Emilio
thanks
Moderator:
What would trigger you to suggest Comté to a DB customer at the counter?
Rocco
Anyone that is ever looking to melt anything.
Hunter
A customer is looking to pair one cheese with several wines and/or beers
Emilio
We sell it because it i a very humble and extremely versatile cheese. And it has a range of flavor that changes from wheel to wheel.
Amanda
I think it’s a huge crowd pleaser.
Emilio
It’s simple to understand and tastes great!
Amanda
Nuanced enough for folks who know specialty cheese to enjoy and a great “gateway” cheese for those unfamiliar
Rocco
I think it has such a familiar makeup of flavors.
Emilio
It goes well with nuts, jams, hams (ham biscuits), other cheeses
Hunter
Honeys, mustards, hot sauces
Rocco
Nuts, brown butter, carmelized onions…
Emilio
It can last for time in your fridge if you can’t get back to the store regularly.
Rocco
Don’t forget the Fondue!
Hunter
Mac and Cheese!
Emilio
It travels well in a back pack, car, camper….that did it, now i gotta eat something.
Amanda
Omelettes!
Rocco
Souffle
Hunter
Comté is so versatile, but is there anything you would be sure NOT to pair it with?
Emilio
That’s a tough question
Hunter
I don’t particularly enjoy it with very hoppy beers
Amanda
I wouldn’t pair it with a very bold wine or beer, you don’t want to overpower it
Hunter
It’s great with stouts, lambics, sours and pilsners, though.
Rocco
But you could pair aged Comté with something bold
Amanda
@Rocco yes! absolutely.
Hunter
Everyone check back in November when Comté Sagesse is realeased
The single best day of the year.
It’s a two-year aged version that is just everything you could ever want
Amanda
I look forward to it every year
Hunter
Only about 1-2% of all Comté is aged that long, and it is typically released only in November.
Emilio
It comes in and goes out very quickly
Rocco
The wheels are gone before you know it.
Hunter
Sagesse, Black Betty, Vacherin Mont d’Or, Rush Creek Reserve, White Truffles…you can’t beat November
Rocco
The crunchy crystals that everyone loves in Parm and Gouda in Comté !
Hunter
…..aaaand scene.
